DIY Upholstered Bed Frame

Upholstered beds are so beautiful.  I purchased an expensive one years ago.  Once it was delivered, I decided that I could build one just as beautiful at a fraction of the price.

So... two years ago, I built a gorgeous upholstered bed - frame and headboard.  When I started looking up tutorials online on how to build an upholstered frame and upholstered headboard, I wasn't able to find much. Unfortunately, I didn't write down what I did so I am writing it all down this time!  I built that bed with 2 x 12s, but it was so heavy to move (very sturdy though) that I decided to build this one with 1 x 12s.  I built the first bed for my guest room, but my niece loved it so much I gave it to her for her 16th birthday.

I hope this tutorial helps you.  All measurements are for a Queen bed (60" x 80"), but you can easily adjust the measurements for any size bed.  Just add 2" for width and 2" for length of mattress.

Bed Frame Materials:

WOOD:

• (2) 1 x 12 x 12 - (2) pieces cut at 82" and (2) pieces cut at 62.  Each board will get you 1 piece cut at 82" each and 1 piece cut at 62".  
• 2 x 2 - 2 pieces at 75" each
• 2 x 4 - cut to 2" width and 4" length.  These will be used for supports for the legs.
• 1 x 4 - cut to 61.5" length for bed slats.

HARDWARE:

• 5'' Surface Mounted Bed Rail Brackets, (Rockler Woodworking, Item #: 30247)
• Leg fasteners
• 4 Legs (I purchased these on Amazon.com, but if you are feeling creative you can build them yourself)
• 3/4" screws (#8)
• 1" screws (#8)
• 2" screws (#10)
• wood glue
• Pneumatic staple gun
• Staples - 3/8" and  5/8"
• Wood clamps
• Bed claw (2), or you can make your own support legs using 2 x 4s.  You will need 4.  I decided this after I already purchased 2 expensive bed claw support legs.I made the other 2 support legs.

MATERIAL:

• Batting (4 yards)
• Fabric of your choice (4 1/8 yards).  I calculated this for completely wrapping the inside and outside of all rails.  I used this fabric.

I purchased the wood at Home Depot.  While I do have a nice table saw, circular saw and jigsaw at home, I don't have a truck to haul large pieces (I have a convertible).  I asked them to cut all of the pieces and they fit just fine in my car (with the top down).




To begin, you need the 2 pieces of 1 x 12 x 82 wood and the 2 pieces of 1 x 2 x 75 wood.  
Measure 1" up from the bottom on the 82" pieces of wood and mark a straight line.  This is where you glue the 75" (1 x 2) piece for support of the mattress.  
Place the 75" piece against the 82" piece with the 2" side out (for mattress support).  
Use wood glue and place clamps on to hold the pieces in place.  
Drill pilot holes, then use the 2" screws to go through the support pieces to the 82" rail.  I placed them about every 12" apart.  Now the clamps can be removed.



Next, install the bed hardware from Rockler Woodworking.  This hardware is great and enables you to take the bed apart easily when moving to another location.  You don't need to drill pilot holes here.  Hold the end pieces next to the side pieces and measure where you want the hardware.
This piece is installed on the rails.



This piece is installed on the head and foot pieces.



So they fit together like this:


I like a tall bed so I purchased 8" legs so I could use the space under the bed for storage.  I needed something for the legs to attach.  I took a piece of 2 x 4 scrap wood and cut it to fit into the space, attached it in using 2" screws and wood glue, then attached the leg using these screw-on leg fasteners. 

Cut (4) bed slats to 61.5" in length.  These will be your mattress support pieces.  Attach your Bed Claw support legs (or your 2 x 4s) to each one at the correct length.





This is the bed frame, built, but not upholstered yet.



Cover each rail with batting, then fabric, using your pneumatic stapler and you are finished with the bed frame!



Price breakdown:



To see the Upholstered Headboard that goes with this frame, click here.

DIY Upholstered Queen Headboard

A few years ago I purchased a beautiful upholstered tufted bed.  It was very expensive.  I decided I could make my own version for a fraction of the price.

Measurements below are for a queen bed; however you can easily adjust the measurements for any size bed, by measuring your frame and adding about 1/2" to an 1" on each side for the center measurement. 

A standard queen mattress is 60" wide, my frame is ~ 61 1/2" so I allowed 62 1/2" for the measurement between the wings so that the frame would fit easily inside. Even if your mattress is a queen, always measure because your frame may be different.

Once I had my plan, I gathered supplies:

WOOD:

• Plywood (1/2" thick) - cut to 62.5"
• 1 x 4 (for back supports) - 2 pieces cut to 55.5" and 2 pieces cut to 48".
• 1 x 6 - cut to the height you want your headboard.  I cut mine to 58" because I wanted the headboard to fit under a painting in the room.
• 2 x 6 (for side arms) - cut to the height you want your headboard. (58" for mine)

HARDWARE:

• 3/4" screws (#8)
• 1" screws (#8)
• 2" screws (#10)
• wood glue
• Pneumatic staple gun
• Staples - 3/8" and  5/8"
• Wood clamps
• Hot glue gun and glue sticks

MATERIAL:

• Batting to cover front and arms (4 yards)
• Fabric of your choice (4 yards). I used this fabric.
• 28 buttons - either covered or purchased
• 62 1/2" x 48 1/2" foam (1")

The plywood was cut to size.  


1x4s were cut and attached to build a support around the entire back of the headboard




A 2x6 and 1x6 were attached together with screws and wood glue for both sides.



Next, the arms were attached.  I did this so the holes would be pre-drilled before the plywood was covered with fabric.

Then I took it apart and drew gridlines on the plywood to space out where I wanted the buttons.



Holes were drilled in plywood for tufting


1" foam was attached with spray adhesive to avoid slipping while tufting

Batting was attached with the staple gun, fabric on top (attached after tufting).  Do yourself a huge favor and purchase a pneumatic stapler.  I purchased this one on Amazon.com for $30.80.  WORTH EVERY PENNY!

I wanted some bling for the buttons so I purchased these on Amazon.com.  You can also buy a covered button kit and use the same material.

I doubled up upholstery thread and used a long upholstery needle to tuft.
Fabric was pulled tight and stapled underneath on all sides.  I also used hot glue to fill the holes.  This ensures the thread does not pull through and gives it extra support.

Batting and fabric were cut to cover the arms - fabric and batting were placed in between headboard and arm then the arm was attached to the headboard - fabric was pulled tight around the arm and stapled to the back

The fold for the fabric on the top of the wing was created by first pulling the fabric over the top - stapling on the outer side (staples to be covered by next step) and then wrapping the fabric around the front and side of the wing - folding the top edge to create the crease (excess fabric and batting were cut off at this point too) and then stapling in the back

Nailheads were applied on the edges of the arm.  Don't try using a regular hammer with the nailheads.  It will damage them.  You will need an upholstery nailhead hammer.  I also used this tool to apply the nailheads, which made it so much easier to line them up.

I used about half of the box of nailheads, so about 500 total.

The headboard is very heavy so in order to keep it from moving/falling, I hung it on 2 french cleats.  This makes it easy to remove and place.
Cut 2 2x4s 7 1/2" in length, then I put the piece on my table saw and cut them at a 45 degree angle, making each one about 3" long.  If you need more info on french cleats, please look at this video.





Price Breakdown:


Not bad considering the amount of fabric and foam needed!

To see the Upholstered Bed Frame that goes with this headboard, click here.